Getting that crispness!

[Cornish-guy]

Just as an example - here is one i shot with my D90 with a 55-300Vr lens, the picture is a 100% crop and the Rafale was traveling at about 400knots, i used 1/640sec shutter speed i think, and f9 aperture and it was a quite high ISO.

M No.33 by arthur.merlin45, on Flickr


C.

[Ridge Runner]

Thanks all, much appreciated. I'll take a peek at Flickr

[Ridge Runner]

Thanks everyone for your time and support. I've followed all your advice where it is different from what I already do and still have questions . I realise that this forum isn't intended to host a photography couirse but more pointers will at least help me with my digital experience. So, your collective thoughts on:

The principles of low ISO as poss, fastest shutter as poss, etc are all pretty much the same as using film.

1. RAW or not? If so, what is the best post-processing software?
2. Does RAW and subsequesnt process enable better sharpening?
3. reducing glare? polorising filter or can be done in RAW processing?
4. hand-held or tripod? Monopod?
5. VR/IS or not?
6. Optimal focal length for show display shots?
7. dynamic focussing or spot?
8. shutter or exposure priority?
9. colour space? Adobe? sRGB?
10. FX or DX (Nikon) or Canon equivalent?

I am taking urkles recent KB set of shots and those of Dean at Payerne as great examples and I am striving to get even close to them!!!

I appreciate all your help in advance and hope it also helps others as I have seen a number of people asking about these same questions or similar on recent threads.

[morticiaskeeper]

I'm a bit late to this, but here's a rundown on my shooting.

D90 or D40, both older DX. Default pick up and go settings are, ISO400, RAW, Shutter Priority set to about 1/500, centre metering, centre focus.

Everything is taken handheld using Nikon 18-70 f3.5, Sigma 70-300 f5.6 & an old Russian manual focus 600mm f6.3. I don't have VR/IS.

If I have the time, like at RIAT, I choose manual metering and manual focus. The metering because it's pretty easy to come up with a base setup, either in the camera or with a Weston Eurosix incident meter, then adjust it one stop either way according to the cloud or sun, sometimes I use three shot auto bracketing. Manual focus because I'm sick of missing shots waiting for the AF to catch up, although the later the body, the better it seems to be.

I tend to hover around f8 to f11, adjusting shutter from 1/320 to 1/1000. If I need to go outside these, I'll change the ISO.

RAW processing is done at home using DARKTABLE on Linux ( WIN version available). Be choosy with RAW codecs, using GIIMP, I found a couple of codecs that were simply not good enough.

Since just before RIAT, I have been processing on the iPad using Photogenie. It's very easy to use, and allows processing and web publishing on site.

Here's a few from RIAT

[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/09/23/eqe4u8yt.jpg[/img]

[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/09/23/erajutu6.jpg[/img]

[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/09/23/gedyzaha.jpg[/img]

[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/09/23/5y6ehage.jpg[/img]

[Ridge Runner]

Thanks mate, Sadly I cant see your examples

[morticiaskeeper]

Ah!

Ok, search for my username on Flickr

[Ridge Runner]

Once again thanks all. I'm opting for the RAW route as my next step .....
M

[nellis6]

Thanks everyone for your time and support. I've followed all your advice where it is different from what I already do and still have questions . I realise that this forum isn't intended to host a photography couirse but more pointers will at least help me with my digital experience. So, your collective thoughts on:

The principles of low ISO as poss, fastest shutter as poss, etc are all pretty much the same as using film.

1. RAW or not? If so, what is the best post-processing software?
2. Does RAW and subsequesnt process enable better sharpening?
3. reducing glare? polorising filter or can be done in RAW processing?
4. hand-held or tripod? Monopod?
5. VR/IS or not?
6. Optimal focal length for show display shots?
7. dynamic focussing or spot?
8. shutter or exposure priority?
9. colour space? Adobe? sRGB?
10. FX or DX (Nikon) or Canon equivalent?

I am taking urkles recent KB set of shots and those of Dean at Payerne as great examples and I am striving to get even close to them!!!

I appreciate all your help in advance and hope it also helps others as I have seen a number of people asking about these same questions or similar on recent threads.

1) I always shoot RAW, however I also know pro photographers who shoot jpeg (and I mean real PRO photographers, not those who claim to be!)
2) RAW will not affect post processing for sharpness. You can sharpen a jpeg!
3) I use a UV filter on all my lenses, but primarily for lens protection. I use Lightroom 5 as my post processing software and glare can be reduced easily on that
4) Depends on what you are shooting, but I only use a tripod when shooting at night. Using a tripod when shooting moving aircraft is in my opinion awkward!
5) All but my smallest lens has IS and I use it. However, on fast moving jets at high shutter speeds it is debatable if it makes a difference
6) Can't answer that as it depends on how far away the aircraft are. The less you crop the better the image, therefore the longer the lens the better!
7) I never us spot. I use AI focus for static images, when there may be a chance that something taxis that you may want to shoot, That way you do not have to think about constantly switching modes at short notice and in a panic. For displays or fast movers then it has to be AI Servo!
8) I use aperture 99% of the time and only use shutter when shooting props. The reason for this is to ensure I use the F-stop I want so as to get the best from my lenses. That way I use the 'sweet spot' discussed earlier in the thread for my lenses
9) Use Adobe RGB as it is more vibrant than sRGB and sRGB can 'dull' colours under certain scenarios
10) Unless you are cropping big time then then a cropped sensor will be more than capable for what you need.

A final couple of points.

1) Buy the best lenses you can. If you compare Canon's normal lenses against their L-series they are like a Mini and a Rolls-Royce. No matter how good you are, or how good your camera body is, you won't get the best images, end of!
2) I use Lightroom 5 to edit my images. It is far cheaper than Photoshop (the real one's, not Elements!). It will do everything you want ion terms of processing and was designed an image processing software programme.
3) When you buy it, also buy Scott Kelby's Lightroom 5 book to get the best from it
4) In terms of ISO. Use the lowest ISO you can. If you can use 100, 125 etc then use it. Higher ISO's result in less quality.
5) In terms of shutter speed; for fast jets something like 800 plus is what I use if the light is good enough, but I will go to 1000 or even 1250! Why not? If I can use F8 and 1000 shutter speed then I will. For props, then a skower speed is required if o you want prop blur, but remember that if the aircraft is moving quickly then the image may not be sharp.
6) I also use auto white balance as this can be adjusted in processing and stops you ending up with the wrong setting because the weather changes through the course of the day

That's my two-penneth if you want it. You can see my images on my website, they are all low res, so please take that into account as the originals looks far, far better. I sell my images to national mags and they have been used by various air forces in their own publications. The one thing I will say is that whether you shoot jpeg or RAW, you must edit your images. Every pro does, no matter what they shoot (aircraft or not) and that is why processing programmes like Lightroom exist. Anyone who does not process is not getting the best from their gear. Personally I always shoot RAW as in jpeg the camera is doing some of the processing for you.

If you want my processing workflow, here it is;
1) Crop
2) Straighten
3) Adjust white balance
4) Exposure
5) Contrast
6) Highlights
7) Shadows
8) Whites
9) Clarity
10) Vibrance
11) Sharpen

Now that looks really busy I know. BUT, I will not necessarily use points 2, 4, 8 and 10 on every image. The others probably will get used/tweaked on most of my images and it may be necessary to go back and tweak them again after all the adjustments, as bear in mind that making one adjustment can affect another.

Anyway, good luck and if you want any more help contact me via my website email